It was during a haphazard stroll towards the Palais Royal’s gardens that I came across this restaurant opened by Caroll Sinclair, the chef and manager whom I had already written about around fifteen years ago. An atypical restaurant, it has a small dining room on the ground floor that features an aquarium and a rotisserie, and, in the basement, several vaulted rooms disguised as train wagons that can easily be made private. Although the menu items might appear to be on the pricier side, it’s because Carroll has put together an offer that focuses on organic products such as bluefin tuna, Madagascar shrimp, foie gras and carefully selected meats and fish. However, at lunchtime, a roast organic chicken (from the Bodin House located in France’s Vendée department) meal is usually served, accompanied with candied potatoes (sit down meals) or homemade chips (takeaway). And indeed, this Vendée chicken is simply delicious. If you want to discover Caroll’s wonderful cuisine, you really need to explore the various items on her menu!
Despite its deceptive simplicity, we never cease to be delighted by this extra touch of refinement. In the quiet Palais Royal area (right by the other side, towards the grand boulevards, which is bustling), a sensible traditional – yet personalised – French cuisine menu lends itself to the appetites of its regulars, all within a highly enlightened atmosphere. Organic chorizo terrine with pine nuts, grilled mackerel, grilled Montbéliard sausage with mashed potatoes, beef or duck lasagne, as part of a complete meal (26.50€). Pacojet ice creams, seven-hour lamb (an à la carte suggestion) and a delicious “one-minute” mille-feuille.
Born in Casablanca (Morocco), Caroll Sinclair moved to Paris during the 60s, when she was just 19 years old. An artist at heart, she first expressed her creative side as a stylist for a subsidiary of the “Dior” fashion house and then for “Ted Lapidus”.
A few years later, she established herself on the decorating scene: shop windows and interior decoration became second nature to her.
It was when she turned 29 that Caroll started innovating in the restaurant business. Cooking according to her intuition and passion, she became a truly great chef while working – initially – at a charming restaurant in Paris’ 18th district, “Chez toi ou chez moi” (Your place or mine).
A former designer at Dior, Caroll Sinclair became a chef during a new turn in her career. Initially, she became known – and recognised – at the Safran before opening the Table d’Hôte (Set Menu) restaurant right by the Palais Royal. Self-taught, she now strives to only work with carefully selected fresh products, originating mainly from organic farming. We love her seafood bisque with saffron and her Saint-Jacques whipped cream, the 7-hour lamb (a delight) and the roasted sea bass with mushrooms. But although we are paying tribute to her cuisine, we must also praise her willingness to open her restaurant 7 days a week. In addition, and whether or not you are an organic food enthusiast, it’s nice to find such a convincing restaurant in this neighbourhood, even on a Sunday.